“Manuel du Bottier et du Cordonnier

ou Traité Complet et Simplifié des ces Arts, contenant les meilleurs procédés à suivre pour confectionner les chaussures de toute espèce,

auxquels on a joint,

d’après les Enseignements particuliers fournis par plusieurs chefs d’ateliers de la capitale, tous les moyens susceptibles de les rendre aussi commodes que durables”

by J.Morin

First (and only) impression

1831

Published by Librairie Encyclopédique de Roret, Paris

312 pages including two richly illustrated fold out plates

Mid 20th century hardback green cloth binding

Ex library copy: United States Patent office ex-libris

Some foxing in parts

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An exceedingly rare copy of this text by J. Morin dating and printed 1831.

From available knowledge, this is the third oldest text describing the process of shoemaking, in the French language, preceded only by the “Encyclopédie“ by Diderot & d’Alembert (1763) and “Descriptions des Arts et Métiers” containing l’Art du Cordonnier by François Alexandre Garsault (1767)

The text is developed in 12 chapters with subsections, covering all aspects of the craft and its techniques. This includes: an introductory consideration of the shoemaker’s life, tools, recipes, knowledge of leathers, mens’ work, ladies’ work, boot work, indoor footwear (“sous chaussures”), repairs, last making, clog making and anatomy of the foot.

It is a fascinating and rare insight into the craft in the early 19th century, when shoemaking is at the cusp of its shift to metal finishing irons.

In the wider historical context, France has just made huge political changes from a monarchy to becoming a republic through great turmoil - one result of which is the desire to spread knowledge and the surge of ‘scientific’ publications such as this book.

Although close to 200 years old, the contemporary shoemaker will be remarkably familiar in the description of techniques still used nowadays.